It was time, I reckoned, to savour ways of being that would soon be obliterated by the food and tourist industries. Along much of my route everyday possessions were made of wood, stone, mud, wool, hides or horn. Blocking our way were some 200 geladas, or ‘bleeding-heart’ baboons, found only in Ethiopia, and in Ethiopia only on the highest mountains. These geladas crowded the whole slope, the nearest scarcely 10 yards away, giving me a clear vision of the heart-sized patch of crimson on each chest. Our intrusion had provoked hysterically raucous protests – reputedly baboons are cowards yet none moved far away as we slowly ascended their spur.