At the fringe of the country, tucked next to the Ukrainian border, is Romania’s most isolated region: Maramureș. The gates protect family compounds: along with the home, you’ll find a barn, a garden, and an old-time dipping well. After dinner, the evening continues in the music room, where Ana’s husband gets out his violin and shares some rousing folk music. Even modern churches are still built in the traditional wooden style. In 1935, a local woodcarver — reviving an old tradition — began adorning what’s known as the “merry cemetery” with a forest of vivid memorials.