Just up the coast, wedged in a ravine, the village of Kastania is more inviting, and offers a rare opportunity to explore a traditional Mani village. Like people in Russia, Serbia, and some other Balkan countries, most Greek Christians are Eastern Orthodox. The iconostasis — the icon-covered screen in the middle of the room — separates the material world (where the worshippers stand) from the heavenly one. Traditional Orthodox worshippers stand through the service, as a sign of respect. Orthodox worship generally involves chanting, and the church is filled with the evocative aroma of incense.